Hello Paris '99ers!
Haute Couture season is upon us, and I, and surely you too, have been flicking relentlessly through all the images available on the various website, namely www.style.com.
One thing has struck me is that there is a lot of crocodile about. Stamping, print, and of course the real thing.
You all know that I love Giambattista Valli, from his work at Ungaro to the edgy 1950s sensibility of his own line. Here is what I think is the perfect croc vest; extremely waisted and with no extra trimmings so all focus is on the narrow waist and that beautifully billowing peplum hip, difficult enough to achieve with wool and horsehair canvas let alone with crocodile skin.
And of course the matching skirt, straight and to the knee. I think there would be women out there who would wear the two together, and what a mighty force that would be (not to mention the price-tag!)
Now amid the major speculation surrounding who will take over from John Galliano at Dior, the 'acting' designer Bill Geytten sent out a collection full of the grand silhouettes Galliano, and of course Christian Dior four circles before him, is remembered for. Tulle, embroidery and all the hallmarks of couture are here, and yes, plenty of croc! I love the simplicity of cut in these jackets; invisible closures, the way the darts help define the hip shaping and the combination of tailored and slouchy. The 'wrap' vest outfit, which seems to swathe around the body as if made from silk. The last two looks might not even actual croc, (a little help here...), but the texture is undoubtedly that of the luxury hide. Either way subtlety of the wider cut neck and dropped shoulder line lend a softer, cooler edge. And nothing beats a big jacket with nothing on the bottom, well, apart from a wispy chiffon pleated skirt of course!
How could you not be just stunned by the work in the Riccardo Tisci collection for Givenchy? Impossible not to be. The fact the every single scale was separately cut then reassembled to the dress worn by Stella Tennant is beyond belief and shows what couture is all about. Here you can see the back, just as important as the front, (and don't they forget it sometimes!), and also the rest of the ten outfit collection, as I just love big fashion group shots.
Finally, well. till today, the Armani Privee collection (and I should totally learn how to type the accent, oops). While mostly focussed on snake, there were a few croc moments, and in such colours too! Fantastic peaked shoulders, though not as over the top as those by Margiela in 2007, provide a great anchor for the rest of the jackets to fall from, and although it may be a leap, I definitely see croc in the print on the gown, and even the bustier looks like croc made from green tinged rocks. Correct me if I'm wrong of course!
Haute couture week continues for a few more days, and as I write this, one of the masters and one of my favourites of course, Jean-Paul Gaultier is about the start his show, and I hazard a guess that there will be croc featured here too, I'll have to update tomorrow! Enjoy! xx