Milano! The home of finesse, sex and pure unadulterated luxury! Its a succinct week full of some of fashion's biggest and most enduring stars, and a slow but sure rise of a new Milanese guard. I found favourites in both categories, and here they are!
Aquilano Rimondi have long been one of my picks as an emerging Italian force. Decorative, lux, capturing both elegance and youth. This collection delivered plenty. Striking bold colour panels, heavy 3D beading, volume and just enough skin, delish!
I remember in an early issue of mine around the end of the millenium, Vogue UK wrote an article about the 100,000pound Fendi fur coat. With technology having grown fifty fold since then and the advancements in what Silvia and Karl can achieve (remember the gold?) are incredible. The fur here floated like chiffon and coats came in hundreds of tiny geometric shapes, panels and strips. The treatment of layered geometric organza gave a grounded weightlessness, and almost everything was asymmetrical, a pet love of mine!
Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci presented something that could have been Decarnin, but with the sass of Italy it came across as molto refined. The detail in the beading and embroidery is incredible, I would say far stronger than the prints.
I must admit I haven't given too much thought to Gucci since 2004, terrible I know, sorry Frida, nor am I one for 'sport luxe' but something about the Japanese bling with a boxing edge really grabbed me!
Marni's floral explosion that then became crystalline is spectacular and the juxtaposition of large and small scale florals is a great way to keep the eye moving, its a little distressing, I like that in fashion.
Distressing but amazing is Fausto Puglisi. There hasn't been much bondage this season but he combined it wonderfully with voluminous skirts and palms trees in varying sizes. The long leather look is just great, for an airconditioned space none the less!
xxx
Aquilano Rimondi!
Fendi!
Gucci!
Marni!
Emilio Pucci!
Fausto Puglisi!
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