Paris '99

Website safe and well and just arrived goodies!

2012-02-28T20:47:00.000-08:00

Hello dear '99ians/iennes :)

The website issue has been sorted so feel free to browse it fearlessly, though really you will end up here where all the action happens (well apart from in the salon itself of course) ;)!

Please enjoy some of these newly arrived goodies, so much to see and such fab designers. Let me run you through them!

I absolutely love Antonio Berardi. From the early 2000s till now his work is fresh, detailed, immaculately constructed using fantastic fabrics and always embodies an innate sex appeal and sexiness without vulgarity. A perfect example is this dress/top/jacket/cardigan/concoction. The minute I saw this I knew it was gold. Its light, it drapes beautifully, the lace is so intricately constructed. It really is a piece for when everything is last minute, you simply slip into it, whack on a red lip, a black pump and clutch and its off into the taxi for a fabulous night out!

Dolce & Gabbana, 30 years in fashion and at the top of their game! This jacket is just, just. And by that I mean its the epitome of chic. The gold buttons, the lightly puffed sleeves and the double cuffs and collar are the kinds of details that lift it to the next level; everything is considered, precise and makes perfect sense. Of course open it up and you have the unmistakable Dolce leopard print lining and signature gold logo drop chain, and the beauty of it is that only you know about them.

Raf Simons' spring 2008 collection for Jil Sander was just stunning. Pink, white, blue and orange in the most intense of tones were given restraint with perfect cutting, minute details and plenty of wispy and billowing tulle. This one of a kind sample from the collection is made from a crinkly wrinkly crepe and lined with flesh coloured silk organza. It literally floats around the wearer as the fabrics have so much body and dimension. The slim cut lapel echoes both the narrow positioning of the buttons and the severity of the arms. For best results, combine with long flowing black gown, or white shirt, jeans and boots for two looks that will make you stand out of the crowd, and that's what we all want right? :)

You all know Luca Luca is one of my favourite labels, and here is just another reason why! This jacket is almost like a cape, it swings out at the back, closes only at the neck with a hook and eye and falls beautifully around the body. The fabric too is divine, a 3D square check in brown and pink, with an almost boucle layer mixed in as well. There is a dress to match, a simple shift with button details on the neck in the shame shade of pink. That was a clever styling move, as two garments in this same fabric would create an almost hallucinogenic effect to those observing, and we should never be too garish I say!

Marc Jacobs is a fashion force. Though of course I understand it from a business point of view, all his diffusion lines and trinkets are not why I love him. The top line collection however, is another story. Take this jacket. On appearance and touch I'm almost certain its silk taffeta, but I am mistaken. It is made from cotton/polyester, though I'm sure the polyester is somewhat like a film which gives it its silky appearance. It even sounds like silk, with a discernible scroop (what a fabulous word haha). The little details like the press stud closure hidden by a rosette and the bow tie on the back waist make it just that little bit more sweet. Its a bit like a candy cane in clothing form actually. And the inside is delicately padded for extra warmth, but you'd never know, its light and fun and perfect for a lift on a gloomy day!

Clearly I have a shoulder fascination as whether its jackets, dress or like this, little tops, the shoulder is always getting a little puff treatment. This little Balenciaga top keeps it interesting with its almost seersucker-like fabric. It is silk, but there is definitely a spring in the step of the vertical 'ribs' of the fabric. Ghesquiere has used the fabric to its full potential, utilising all directions; the flounce is cut on the bias, the neck-tie on the off grain, and this creates extra movement and beautiful lines around the piece. I see it worn with a slightly flounced skirt and almost non existent shoes, or over jeans with a black cotton jacket for ease. Tell me what you think.

I just love abstract prints, prints that look kooky but aren't actually anything. Stains, smears, strange shapes, love it. So of course this putty coloured Jil Sander number is right up my alley. Made from simple but luminous cotton poplin it sits just at the knees and button blind (invisible buttons). I think blind buttoning is very clever as it makes it seem as though the garment and the wearer are one, and that may be a slightly bizarre concept but I like it :). So then the print. Its as if the dress was folded in places as the printing happened, and areas were left cracked and smudged. It fits right in with that slightly broken beauty that Raf Simons achieved in his time at the label, and coming into Autumn its the perfect time for this dress.

Chloe jeans, what more to say. These have a really nice fit around the thighs and then they flare out ever so slightly. Not boot, not straight, somewhere in between. You must of course have long long legs, but then again, getting jeans taken up is very easy indeed :).

I just love this Thakoon cotton skirt with ribbon trim details. It actually almost looks as if it has been stitched over with celluloid, or movie film (though of course a textile version). The crinkled cotton feels like it has been waxed which gives the skirt a real 3D feel, it pretty much stands up on its own. With a simple tank and long jacket its still the focus of your outfit, without dominating you!

Who doesn't love an easy 'go-to' top to throw on with jeans, tailored pants, skirts, jackets, the whole she-bang! This Chloe silk ruffled sleeveless top is certainly the one. Its light, breezy and works dressed up, dressed down, taking the kids to and from school, light lunch, fancy dinner (with a jacket and voluminous skirt), layer necklaces all over it with a pencil skirt, just so many options!!

I have mentioned to you Sari Gueron before, the young New Yorker. Well this is another of her gorgeous things. Think 1920s, 1960s, cabaret lounge fabulousness. It is silk, sits slightly off the shoulders and is framed by the velvet strip. The polka dots are devoreed velvet and all down the front are beaded silk rosettes decorated with blue/green tinged feathers. It is just delightful, and needs a fascinator and a small glass vodka bottle as an accessory. Love it!

To change it up here is the amazing construction detail first. The seams have been faggoted together with the crochet in between (and yes, faggoting is indeed the technique)! The use of a non solid piece in what is the actual shaping of the jacket and for it to sit so flat could only really be achieved by the workrooms of Italy. The shoulders have a beautiful shape, and the front closure is actually 22 sturdy hooks and eyes; this is not a quick off and into bed jacket, but it will absolutely get you to the stage just before bed! Enjoy!

xx :)

Website attacked by virus, apologies!

2012-02-27T19:08:00.000-08:00

Dear Paris '99ers,
My website has been struck down by a terrible virus! :(
The virus has been sending spam emails and I apologise profusely if you have been a victim.
As such, I have suspended the website until the issue is under control.
Do not despair, I will be posting blogs and updating on Facebook and Twitter.
All will be sorted soon I'm sure!
xx
Yahav

'Tis Oscar time, lets reminisce!

2012-02-26T20:46:00.000-08:00

Hello dear Paris '99ers!
Wow it was an absolutely scorching! weekend as summer decided to make a late entry, next week is autumn, hmmm, and well, as we speak, its Oscar time! Red Carpet extravaganza to be sure :).

Image take from pictures.directnews.co.uk

I thought seeing as I enjoy looking at what has come before it would be a nice idea to reminisce about some beautiful fashion moments on the biggest Red Carpet in the world!

Starting exactly 10 years ago with a certain Alexander McQueen look on Gwyneth Paltrow.

Gwyneth Paltrow in Alexander McQueen, 2002 Oscars. Image taken from www.celebbuzz.com thanks :)

Now I actually think that this is a really beautiful skirt, the detail in the pleating is stunning, and as it opens out into that softly billowed taffeta train, yum! And the top, well you know, its McQueen, and even though it was perhaps not as Oscars as we'd seen her in (cue tissues for that frothy pink Ralph Lauren gown when she won), I thought she looked great.

Another interesting but totally fitting choice was Bjork, in support of her film 'Dancer in the Dark' in 2001. Of course how could we forget the 'Swan' by Marjan Pejoski, her stylist and a designer in his own right. Of course Bjork has worn all the 'odd and interesting' designers; Junya Watanabe, Hussein Chalayan, so really, what's the difference being adorned as a swan!

Of course Cher must get a mention for her role in Oscar fashion antics. When she won in 1988 for Moonstruck she rocked none other than a sparkle king Bob Mackie beaded dress which apart from a wink to modesty was completely sheer, and looked fabulous doing it!

Now I've always been a fan of Hilary Swank. In 2000 when she first won for Boys Don't Cry, she wore a green strapless gown by American designer Randolph Duke, very nice. But really, her dress in 2004, for Million Dollar Baby was an outright stunner. Designed by Herve Leger (under the pseudonym Herve L. Leroux) while he was actually designer at another fabulous Parisian house Guy Laroche (yes, internalise that for a minute...), it was my favourite style of dress, guess what, an 'exit'.
In the darkest of blues, with a high neck, cross draped waist, long sleeves and to the floor, with a completely open back (and of course her's was looking great after all the boxing training) and a cascading train. I thought it epitomised Swank's glamourous but a little left bank chic. Enjoy.

Another off-beat favourite of mine (and maybe everybody's...) is of course Tilda. She who can do no wrong.
What better way to dress to the Oscars than in a majestic sack dress. No ordinary sack dress of course, but a washed silk, asymmetric sack from the as yet to be shown Lanvin winter 2009 collection. I as a lover of unusual drape loved the weight of the right side as contrasted to the simple shift idea of the left. And of course when she lifted her golden man into the air Alber Elbaz's creation took on new life and it was as if she was a porcelain phoenix rising into the air on its wing!

Now its time for an Oscar classic. Not only was it the first year that both lead acting roles were won by African American actors (good intro sentence with absolutely no relevance to fashion I realise ;P), but a Lebanese fashion king was immortalised into Oscar history, and his brand exploded in the West. I have been to the flagship Paris boutique and let me tell you, it is opulence at its finest. I speak of course of Elie Saab, and Halle Berry's dress when she won for Monster's Ball. Everything has been said about this dress, so Ill just show it and let you all remember it in all its glory for yourselves. Don't cry too much now though.

Another regular hitter on the Oscars circuit is Cate Blanchett, perhaps my favourite 'fashiony' celebrity (if you're reading this Cate, do come and visit ;)). In 2011 she wore a beautiful Givenchy Haute Couture gown with a circular cut back and yellow beading, perhaps a precursor to the yellow madness that was to hit runways soon after. I love Cate's ability to slide between Armani powersuits, Dries Van Noten demure dresses and all the way to proper couture gowns. This dress falls somewhere in the middle of the last two categories.

As you can see I appreciate people doing it differently at the Oscars, and in 2001 Angelina Jolie certainly did when she wore a simple white Dolce and Gabbana suit. The previous year she won Best Supporting Actress for Girl, Interrupted wearing a long black dress widely touted as her worst look over (a bit harsh but one can see why). Ever a fashion chameleon, Angelina shifted into light, white and minimal with this look.

As a parting note on what we have seen till now, we must congratulate Ann Hathaway, and of course Rachel Zoe, who 'died' as much a cat at last years Oscars. My stand outs are the Tom Ford, Armani Prive and that fabulous Red Carpet red opener by Valentino.

Enjoy! xx

The Fashion World Of Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition Book! OMG!

2012-02-21T22:56:00.000-08:00

Well hello dear Paris '99ers!
As promised here is my post about my new favourite book 'The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier', published to accompany the exhibition from the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. The exhibition is currently travelling the world, and I am ecstatic to say that I will be lucky enough to see it in San Francisco when I visit the USA in June! Counting down already!

Well, if any of you have seen the book, you will know it is absolutely colossal. It certainly weighs close to 3kg and comes, as seen above and in my preview post, inside a striped plastic cover in the most classic of Gaultier patterns, the nautical stripe.

But lo, as I slid the book out from the cover everything changed!
Spoiler Alert!!

The cover is actually made up of two different images, a portait of Jean Paul's well known haircut, and as below, an image from the 'Virgins' Spring 2007 haute couture collection shot by Miles Aldridge. It as an absolutely off kilter, exciting and Gaultier moment with which to begin the journey of this fabulous book.

A piece of both spliced up images.

Right from the beginning the visuals are incredible. Iconic Gaultier images and new images which will surely become iconic come flying left, right and centre. Each aspect of Gaultier's own label career is examined, with interviews from him and from people around him at each point in time. Madonna, former assistant and icon himself Martin Margiela, Dita Von Teese, fashion historian Valerie Steele and a plethora of others have their say about the effect Gaultier has had on them and fashion in general.

Original corset from Madonna's 'Blonde Ambition' tour 1990. Of course there are numerous images of the tour in action, and sketches too!

Of course Gaultier is known for his highly collectible mesh pieces, and each season brings a new interpretation of the human anatomy. Different colours, different muscles, tendons and veins abound. Sometimes the print is negative, sometimes sinews are juxtaposed with a print of a garment, of buttons, of animals, its somewhat unsettling, macabre but always artful and beautiful. This is the print for the 2010-2011 collection.

I have always had a soft spot for this collection, ironically because it is featured in the film 'Unzipped', about a different designer altogether, New Yorker Isaac Mizrahi. I just love the dramatic scene where its found out that the Nanouk of the North, Eskimo inspiration was part of a Zeitgeist for Winter 1994. This collection is also featured in Robert Altman's classic, Pret-a-Porter, a fashion must see, and I would assume you have all seen it already! Here is Bjork on the runway, she was always into fashion, see :)

A stunning display of technique using feathers, this haute couture dress was also worn by Dana International when she won the Eurovision Song Contest in 1998. Let us say it is no surprise Gaultier was supportive of the transsexual singer, and hello, the publicity of Eurovision. But there was controversy, as the dress was worn during the dress rehearsal but not in the actual performance. According to Israeli media it was considered too over the top. Luckily she did win, and wore the dress again when performing the song as the winner, such drama!

Image taken from www.escireland.com

Gaultier's love of world culture is explored in the chapter 'Urban Jungle. His collections have taken us far far away, to China, Russia, Africa, North America and several times to India. This wedding dress above is the perfect representation of a well travelled 'Hussar' bride.

I love this shot of legendary fashion editor Polly Mellen in the ball skirt made from recycled denim. Funnily at this point, in 1985, Martin Margiela was working for Gaultier, and one of his most influential contributions to fashion were long reworked denim skirts. Interesting indeed ;).

I had never seen this photo, but of course it is by esteemed rock photographer Anton Corbijn for 'Details' magazine in 1993 when Nirvana were at the peak of their unfortunately short-lived career.

Another of Gaultier's most recognisable signatures, anything nautical goes! A selection of a highly recurring theme in his work. My favourite is the last dress in the second row, where the stripes gradate down to a torn chiffon explosion!

Just had to put this one in for its most stunning construction, the wedding dress from the aptly titled 'Cages' collection of 2008.

Kylie Minogue peers from underneath this lace number and appears regularly in the book. Gaultier designed the costumes for her most recent tour, and she has worn his clothes throughout her career.

Of course no one is more 'connected' to Gaultier than Madonna. He costumed both 'Blonde Ambition' and 'Confessions' tours and she has appeared in dress after stunning dress of his time and time again. Madonna's section in the book is the largest dedicated to a single person, and that says something. Of course no other public appearance is more revealing than that below, where the wardrobe malfunction was self created.

Dita Von Teese, a modern muse of Gaultier, has appeared in numerous runway shows and wears many of the designer's incredibly made corsets.

The same dress as shot on model Jade Parfitt from later in the chapter entitled 'The Boudoir' which as you might imagine focusses on Gaultier's passion for corsetry, lingerie and lace.

The first chapter is called Gaultier's Paris, and it clear why. Taking inspiration from the clubs, the cancan girls and the building themselves, Gaultier has dedicated entire collections to the city which has made an indelible mark on him.

An entire book could be devoted just to the ubiquitous Gaultier trench. A master of the garment, he reinterprets, recontextualises and rediscovers the trench in every collection. The way the trench is transformed from its rigid origins to this cascading drape on Charlotte Rampling is simply extraordinary.

The label attached to anything Gaultier Paris, the haute couture line. I am lucky enough to own a piece (or three) of Gaultier Paris, so do come on by, try them on and say that you too have worn couture!

What a fabulous way to finish off this post, the ultimate show of the man's love affair with his city!

Do yourselves a favour and go and buy this book, or at least come to the salon and we can perouse it together. Its 420 pages of all things Gaultier and I've shown you what, 20? And you know how much I enjoy the company :)
Enjoy and till next time!
xx

Gaultier book whoo!

2012-02-20T05:01:00.001-08:00

OMG P'99, JPG has arrived and I'm going to be up all night reading!
Preview for you all, and soon a more in depth review of what I can tell is going to be my favourite book for a looooong time!

xx

Little Black Dresses, yum!

2012-02-20T00:28:00.000-08:00

Hello all you '99ers!
Finally my book arrived!
Little Black Dress Vintage Treasure, written by Didier Ludot, one of the world's most well known collectors of designer vintage, and in particular the black dress; he has a whole store dedicated to them at the Palais Royal in fair Paris.
I too love a great black dress, and in fact while picking which ones to share with you, I counted over 25 of them in the salon. Some of them are little, some are little but heavy, more for winter, and though I haven't shown them, there are a couple of 'big black dresses' too!

Fab cover!

The basic of all basic LBDs, Chanel's 'Ford' pleated crepe dress, magnifique!

The shot on the right is Tom Ford for Gucci spring 2001, if you remember Kylie Minogue wore a similar pink grosgrain dress in her clip for.. la la la .. ;)

Prada Fall 2001, I love the interplay between sheer and opaque, it makes the dress not as overtly smutty as it may actually be!

A selection of Ann Demeulemeester black dresses, here and always in person they are simply beautiful and instantly recognisable.

And of course Yohji Yamamoto in a still taken in 1991 in the Paris showroom before the runway show.
All images taken on my phone (explains the handheld quality..) from the book Little Black Dress Vintage Treasure by Didier Ludot, 2001, Assouline.

And now friends, a small, but detailed, selection of some black dresses at Paris '99 :)

Alberta Ferretti silk chiffon shirred layering dress. Light as air, romantic and feminine, but when done with a pair of leather pants, a loose silk top and tough lace up boots it takes on a whole new personality.

Badgley Mischka silk pleated skirt shift dress. As you know I think these two gentlemen are among the epitome of taste makers in New York and from that reputation this dress does not stray! It is cut beautifully, simple in line and the little bow used to break divide the bodice and skirt gives it the necessary detail to lift it to the level of its makers. And the '20s are just so in!

Who doesn't love Nicolas Ghesquiere? I certainly do, and this little number is a testament to the precision of his cutting in his early days at Balenciaga. As you can see in the detail shot, the whole front is shaped by eight perfectly sewn darts. When on the body this dress is literally second skin, and the 'overall' style strap is actually removable, leaving the buttons and a fabulous strapless dress to go for a small dinner and easy dance!

When we think of Christian Lacroix, simple black dresses are not usually the first thing to come to mind. But remember, Lacroix is an haute couturier and a beautiful cut and knowledge of material is paramount to his success. This dress has tiers and tiers and then some of the most beautifully intricate lace, three kinds of it to be exact. At first sight it is subdued, but when on the body the top part of the bodice shows the underneath, and this is where a very good bra is needed! Because of its simplicity, it could be worn, with a good tailored jacket or cardigan, to the office and to lunch. With a crystal cuff and coloured minaudiere its perfect for any evening occasion, and the best part, it has pockets!

Another beautiful dress that must be seen up-close is this Rochas, as designed by my favourite, Olivier Theyskens. We know that Theyskens' work at Rochas was at almost couture quality, and with all the handwork and details on this simple simple piece, you can see why pieces pretty much started at the $1000 mark and others were simply POA. This little gem is silk too, you know I like natural and expensive fabrics ;), the buttons are self covered and along every seam is a gorgeous almost blanket stitch, finished entirely by hand. The centre lining panel and all the edges are also hand sewn. Its important to remember that with fashion of this level, the inside is possibly even more important that the outside, and it gives you the wearer the satisfaction of knowing you are wearing something truly special.

This go to party dress by New Yorker Sari Gueron is just fabulous. The zip is off centre, the bust detail is the connection between the front and the back, and the whole piece is piped along every seam, all curves considered. Lets not even mention the fun and flirty bubble skirt design and the beautifully dull and weighty satin which stops the dress from dating or just simply being too 'shiny'. Sari is one to watch, I have another black dress from her, it has feathers, velvet and polka dots, imagine that!

Thanks for your patience while I waited for my book to arrive and inspire me. At the moment I am waiting on four more books, including 'Irreverant' by Carine Roitfeld. Can't wait to share that one with you!
xx

Pre post little black dress!

2012-02-16T17:12:00.000-08:00

Hello!!
In order to celebrate the arrival of my little book 'The Little Black Dress' by Didier Ludot, I will be posting all about the little black dresses I love and have!
Watch this space soon! Xx

Just another quick colour update!

2012-02-15T05:23:00.000-08:00

Hello all, its late but I feel inspired to write about these three garments (two of which have found fabulous homes of their own beyond the Salon walls).

L-R : Givenchy silk satin dress, Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferre column skirt, Kenzo tucked skirt.
Image courtesy Ellenie Zahariou.

I fell in love with each of these pieces at first sight, when my wonderful seller (s) whipped them across the screen and then onto their lovely selves. I guess you could say they are bound together by their super saturated and bold colours, but its really, and like with every highest end garment, a combination of things that make the complete picture.
All of them are made with finest quality silk; the Givenchy in a liquid satin, the Dior in a strong duchess satin combined with a crepe for the gorgeous drape, and the Kenzo in a crispy yet elegant georgette.
The Givenchy is constructed with three frills that swirl around the body, and release at the hem for a slightly 1920s kick. It is a subtle 'exit' dress, a term I first heard used in reference to a simple Gianni Versace floor-length draped gown featuring a high neck and long sleeves, which then revealed a completely open back and a slit that almost met it at the wearer's buttocks. This part of course is anything but subtle.

Please excuse the amateur photography! Pictures taken by me out of the book 'Gianni Versace' the catalogue for the retrospective exhibition at the Met in NYC in 1997 following Versace's death.

Well, as I mentioned this Givenchy is a subtle version of the above, which really means it has a lovely point of interest on the back, here a lovely loose corset racer back where the lace actually drops past the flounced hemline. Its a gorgeous dress which keeps the eye moving across, up and down, and around the body and I am so happy it has found a new and fabulous owner!

Le back :)

Gianfranco Ferre designed at Christian Dior from 1989, replacing Marc Bohan, until John Galliano took over in 1996. The skirt above harks back to the elegance and glamour of the 1930s, but its whopping colour palette is just so now! Only know to its previous owner, myself, and now its new owner, is the amazing level of handwork used to join the bow to the body almost, ironically, seamlessly, it just seems to emerge from six lines of meticulous stitching. And also, there is no seam in the curve, but a fold with a careful tuck which accentuates the drape. Its just beautiful, and will be taken back overseas, not to Europe, but to North America. Oh the universal nature of fashion!

Which leaves the Kenzo skirt, with its folds and folds and folds and pleats and ruffles and overall intense finishing which all in all becomes perfectly balanced and necessary. Add a woollen stocking and its the perfect winter skirt, fitting perfectly into the palette we are seeing on the runways now!

Good night all, and let's catch up soon :)
xx

A little bit of everything..

2012-02-15T00:24:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers!
So 'tomorrow' turned into '2 days later' which is 'today', but here are some of the things I've been up to! Enjoy and come visit of course :)
xx

The 'light' display, (as taken at night). Badgley Mischka beaded jacket, Moschino sheer dress, Anne-Valerie Hash lambskin leather bag and Alaia paisley burnout scarf.

The 'cube' display atop the stairs. Viktor & Rolf silk scarf, Alexander McQueen mirrored belt, Natalia Brilli silver 'No-lex' Blumarine evening bag and Yves Saint Laurent 'brogue' heels. And of course a selection of yummy fashion books :)

The staircase mannequin. Roland Mouret tulle head piece, Giorgio Armani scientist glasses, Givenchy S&M peeptoe boots and Dolce & Gabbana chain.

My new dress! Made from a reversible wool herringbone boucle (a mouthful I know) and a beautiful dry wool gaberdine, it swirls around the body and has a surprise for the wearer too ;) (next time friends..).

Drape in cotton/silk finished with the Roland Mouret 'bow belt'.

Most recent arrival, get ready for winter ladies, Marni bottle green wooden platform leather boots, simply killer. Yes.

More to come soon :)
xx

Midnight thoughts for tomorrow.

2012-02-12T06:11:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone :)
I hope all you Paris '99ers are well and good and have had a wonderful weekend. I have been a busy busy man draping and making some new pieces of my own in time for winter, which is right on the doorstep even though summer barely showed itself this year!
Tomorrow you will see pics of the pieces, a dress, skirt and shawl/jacket.
Also if you friend me on Facebook as Yahav Ron you'll see my sporadic postings of favourite looks from fashion month as it progresses!
Off to bed now, enjoy this little biddy interim post :)
Xx

L'oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival 2012

2012-02-08T20:28:00.000-08:00

Hello all my dear '99ers!
Here it is, after much umming and ahhing and forward and backing I have decided what my picks are for LMFF 2012.

The LMFF 2012 Campaign image. (Image taken from www.rawwblog.com)

First and foremost, the two fashion shows that for me will be most exciting:

LMFF Runway 4 presented by Vogue (Monday March 12, 7pm)
While all the official runway shows will undoubtedly be fabulous, Runway 4 features who I believe are the the cream of Australia's crop, some are already established, others are gaining ground quickly, and certainly each of the labels presenting has developed a strong design signature and a recognisability that sets the apart from their peers.

Dion Lee:
I was lucky and privileged enough to actually be at the show where Dion Lee presented his graduation collection at the 2008 Rosemount Australian Fashion Week. His grasp of cut, subtle use of print and what would become his signature twisting between drape and structure using transparent versus opaque fabrics was there to behold.

Back stage at the '4 Boys Fashion Design Studio show' (Image taken from www.reportageonline.com)

One of the campaign shots for the 2008 collection. (Image taken from www.pidgeion.com.au)

I was ( also ;) ) lucky and privileged enough to actually, albeit unexpectedly, be sitting front row at the show where Dion Lee presented his stunning collection at the Sydney Opera House in 2010. The perfectly positioned pleated chiffon that snaked its way through spliced jackets and jackets made from bonded neoprene in the softest lavender and baby blue palette was truly the highlight of the week.

Backstage at the 2010 Spring/Summer collection. (Image taken from oystermag.com.au)

An outstanding display of control and release with pleats. (Image taken from www.frockwriter.blogspot.com)

Ellery:
Kim Ellery's wham-bam-glam-rock- overdrive style is notorious. Studs, sequins, platforms, leather; its all here in plentiful supply. This will certainly be a show stopping part of the show at LMFF!

Campaign shot from Summer 2010. (Image taken from www.elleryland.com)

LMFF National Graduate Showcase (Thursday March 13, 6:30pm)
It is always inspiring and exciting to see the newest crop of graduates show their collections to the public eye, and this year I believe will be an absolute treat. Having attended the RMIT graduation runway at Melbourne Spring Fashion Week in 2011 I have seen a few of the designers whose work will be shown here, and it really is outstanding.

Amelia Agosta's skeletal bodice bra and structured hip pants. (Image taken from www.fashionising.com)

Laura Huishan Li created intense sculpted leather bodices, but this mask version was the ultimate.
(Image taken from www.fashionising.com)

Tickets are on sale now for both these events and other LMFF Runway shows too!

Now I, like all of us really, am a sucker for Hermes (please excuse the lack of accent (said in a perfect French accent of course), on my 'e', we are low-fo here).
The NGV Australia is screening the documentary 'Hearts and Crafts', which shows us exactly how and who makes the world's most covetable luxury accessories. It screens four times, at 1pm and 3:30pm on March 8 and again on April 10.
It is a free event, though bookings are required, and I have already booked mine, so get to it!

Image taken from www.shopnchomp.blogspot.com

I am definitely looking forward to the exhibition 'Swinging: The Fashion Photography of Brian Duffy', which will be on display at Level 1 of the Sofitel Hotel from March 1 - 29.
Brian Duffy started his career as a fashion designers assistant in London, and in the early 1950s relocated to Paris and by chance discovered his love of photography. He would later go on to shoot countless editorials for Vogue and Elle, two Pirelli Calenders (1973 was particularly risque) and of course the haunting cover for David Bowie's 'Aladdin Sane'.

Aladdin Sane cover, 1973. (Image taken from www.bowiesongs.wordpress.com)

Jane Birkin (image taken from www.mastersofphotography.blogspot.com)

There are two major Sustainable Fashion events that are sure to be a treat this year; 'Upcycling' at the Carlton Hotel, and of course the wonderful 'The Spirit of the Black Dress', now into its fourth and strongest year!

Upcycling features work by some of Melbourne's best known talents including Gwendolynne and Richard Nylon, Jenny Bannister and Julia deVille. Each practitioner has created something from raw, found or natural materials, and it will surely be impressive given the calibre of the participants. The event takes place on the 21st of March at the new Hasti Bala bar at the Carlton Hotel on Bourke St.

A design by Gwendolynne at the White Wedding Dress exhibition in Bendigo, veil by Richard Nylon.
(Image taken from www.theloupe.org)

'The Spirit of the Black Dress' was an idea formed in 2009 by the wonderful Tullia Jack and Jane Hayes around recycling, upcycling, and use of sustainable design principles specifically in relation to the fashion staple, the little black dress. The idea took off rapidly and this fourth installment is back with a vengeance with Jane at the helm. There is a runway show, exhibition and fully fledged magazine!
Having seen designers such as Alexis Belcher, Michelle Czech, Nikolina Kucan and Georgia Mccorkill show their wares, this year sees a fine selection of designers including Sonya Kraan and Bento (an already successful sustainable label).
The exhibition takes place at The Trust from March 7-20.

Spirit of the Black Dress group image (image taken from blog.aliceuphemia.com)

Finally, to top it all off, a trip out of town, to the next highlight at the Bendigo Art Gallery: Grace Kelly: Style Icon. Another collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum, the exhibition will feature pieces from Kelly's career as a Hollywood star and also when she became Princess Grace of Monaco. There will be iconic costumes, and must see Haute Couture pieces from all the major Paris coutieriers of the 1960s and 70s, including Yves St. Laurent, Balenciaga and Dior. I certainly cannot wait, and then to a pleasant cafe in Bendigo for afternoon tea, what a perfect day!

A selection of Grace Kelly's dresses on display at the V&A in London (image taken from canada.com)

Hope to see some of you at events around town and enjoying the fashion spirit that overtakes Melbourne early March! And of course if you've been doing Fashion Month (starting tomorrow in NYC oooo!!), it will be the cherry on your proverbial fashion pie!

xx

Some fabulous pieces!

2012-02-06T00:22:00.000-08:00

Hello dear Paris '99ers, I hope all your weeks have been lovely, and that no-one was harmed in any way by the vicious winds that ripped through Melbourne yesterday.
I have been busy busy and loving every minute of it. I have some new pieces to show off to you, and even though the heat and sunshine has been very random and sporadic this year, believe it or not it is almost time for winter!
And so, please enjoy, and there will be a whole host more newly arrived pieces for the colder, cosier months.

This jacket truly needs to be touched to be appreciated fully. It is by the wonderful Milanese designer Maurizio Pecoraro, an undiscovered gem with the most beautiful creations. The jacket is made from the softest angora, slightly brushed for a warm and fuzzy texture, appearance, and feel. The buttons are literally little mirrors and the whole jacket is like a comfortable blanket, with a kind of 'Rive Gauche '70s' attitude. The belt, with its wide buckle, helps to anchor the waist, and when paired with a long black trouser there is nothing better. Made by Olmar and Mirta (famous for producing Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh).

I just love this amazing shirt by Haider Ackermann, how can he do any wrong? This is an earlier work, but shows all the hallmarks of his considered drape, unusual technique and masculine feminine mix. Made from cotton, the sleeves have been carefully smocked, which cinches the arm at the elegant 'bracelet' length. The cuff does not close, but instead buttons asymmetrically just under the smocking to create a skewed and slightly disorientating feel. To add another point of interest to the mix, on the left above the smocking is an unstructured pocket akin to a mechanic's cigarette pack pocket. Finally a freely constructed hidden button tab finish off this simple but important piece from one of today's most influential fashion figures.

From another influential (and Belgian) figure is this golden folded skirt. Raf Simons has developed his own dialect using the highly established language of Jil Sander, and the possibilities are endless with the talent and know how of the atelier in Milan. This woollen skirt is covered by a 'film' of nylon, which really highlights the sheen of the gold. The magic comes from the absolute simplicity and starkness of the front panel, and the unexpected yet completely welcome subtly folded back. They start small and neatly, making the shape at the waist, and grow equally and precisely towards the hem. The whole effect is simple up and down, paired with a simple silk cami and an almost invisible shoe it is the epitome and minimal yet impressive dressing.

On an entirely different note and harking to a completely different time is this Anna Molinari dress that would have been right at home on the dancefloor at Studio 54, or perhaps a bit later in a mansion in Texas. It could only be made from a sturdy viscose crepe, slinky and clingy, as is certainly necessary. The vertical seaming of the body lengthens, and the horizontal seams at the shoulder exaggerate the volume at the top for a more ruthless, powerful persona. For modesty, much tape is needed, but in this dress, who really needs modesty!

And to finish us off for the moment, these simply stunning pumps by Gucci. In a light blue/slate grey satin covered with a floral lace they are dainty and elegant, until one sees the heel. Stacked wood, heavy and not to be reckoned with, it restores that feminine strength that is most basic at Gucci. Perfect for a night out with a gown, a light lunch with the girls, or with a pair of fitted jeans and a blazer, they are an essential in every woman's wardrobe.

Hope you liked, till next time :) xx

Fashion month is upon us!

2012-02-01T14:58:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers!
Yes its true, fashion month is (almost) upon us!
Starting this time next week in New York (Feb 9 - Feb 14), hitting London (Feb 15 - Feb 22), running at full force in Milano (Feb 22 - Feb 29) and finally exploding in Paris (Feb 28 - Mar 7)!
Like me, you may have noticed that there is a significant amount of overlapping about to happen, and this is scary for those designers who fall into the dates in question. It leads to questions such as; which editors will come to my show? What if the major journalists are out of town before I open my showroom? What if the models I want are unavailable?!!!
The models question really exists regardless, and in fact when I was in Paris with A.F Vandevorst (and every other season I imagine), there was much controversy when the powerhouse Milan designers began casting models a week in advance, causing major talent to essentially skip London Fashion Week, and the Brits were not happy. Well, everyone except Burberry of course, who could afford to match bargaining power with the Italians.
Luckily for Paris, all this was over, and all they had were a bunch of overworked and exhausted models. Note that they were not underfed, well, the backstage catering at A.F was simply fabulous; sandwiches, pasta, fruit, salads and cold meats galore. If I had't been riding my bike religiously for the whole year I surely would have put on weight, and come to think of it, I also took a few salted foot baths due to strenuous walking, but I concede it was not in 15cm platforms after-all.
So, what can I write about fashion month?
Essentially I'm going to outline who I think will be worth watching, and provide pretty pictures of standout collections from them. Of course its all open to interpretation, and I imagine there will be disagreements, but I welcome varying opinions, its important to share. :)
x

New York Fashion Week (presented by Mercedes Benz), the place for glamour, cool and event dresses.

Badgley Mischka (Tuesday February 14, 10am)
The duo who can do no wrong with sequins, lace and tulle. Stay away if you like it simple, or do not live at galas, cocktail parties or on the red carpet, unless of course it is the one in your own head, and why not!

Gown from Pre-Fall 2012, who doesn't love a covered up yet totally sexy long sleeved floor length gown!

And as you know, I do love a bit of gold, from Spring 2011, and that simple 'knot' neck line, beautiful!

And just to show they can do daywear and print is this vibrant, leafy wrap dress from Fall 2008.
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Derek Lam (Sunday February 12, 12pm)
As someone who always loves a quirky colour combination using 'tilted' tones, I count Derek Lam, an absolute fixture on the NYC schedule, as one of my favourites. Added to that strong, linear shapes, and you have powerful, urban clothes, with a twisted femininity.

From Fall 2009, this wrap-like coat over a wrap dress using four colours maybe shouldn't work, but with the tones working in harmony with each other, it really does. Let's see how the outerwear this season is!

This is a perfect example of Lam's soft toughness. The rusted brick sleeveless shapeless duffel detailed coat is all military, but the legs and sandals lighten it all up. From Fall 2011.

Again slightly monastic in its covering up, this dress is lifted by the romantic yet restrained floral print and its most vibrant green, love it! From Pre-fall 2012. All pictures taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Proenza Schouler (Not featured on official schedule as of yet)
Another duo no longer the new kids on the block, these gentlemen are infinitely cool, love a fitted bodice and always imbue their collections with high level construction techniques and a deft way with fabrics.

Fall 2010, a short but voluminous skirt and cropped jacket make for a long, loooong, leg.

An example of the duo's hand with fabric. The velvet devoree which organically surrounds the body and wisps away around the leg continues a sense of movement around the garment, as seen at Fall 2011.

Also from Fall 2011, though I feel mustard will actually make another appearance for the coming season too.

And from the most recent collection, Pre-fall 2012, is this shade of blue and matelasse treatment that Proenza Schouler have used previously, but with an ever growing body of work, why can't they be self referential?
All pictures taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

London Fashion Week (by Vodafone) the breeding ground for the world's next best talent.

Highlights: (Almost too many!)

Jean Pierre Braganza (Friday February 17, 4pm)
A graduate of the prestigious Central St. Martins, Braganza was selected for mentor-ship by Karl Lagerfeld as part of the Woolmark design contest of 2008. His strong and impeccable tailoring and deeply intricate digital print designs ensure a successful and exploratory future.

There is always something wonderful about pulling off a complicated construction such as these stripes in changing thickness and experimentation with sheer and volume at the same time, and the bold red skirt and boots create a strong anchor. From Winter 2011.

This jacket cum vest cum dress highlights the tailoring prowess shown by Braganza. Strong shoulders, a slight angled drape and flawless fit. From Winter 2011.

A combination of light androgyny and perfectly positioned print. I see this jacket shape as a definite way forward. From Spring 2012

This cascading print from Spring 2012, graduating to the apricot shade and into white bring a certain softness to the otherwise hard and futuristic feel of the work.
All pictures taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Marios Schwab (Sunday February 19, 12pm)
When Schwab burst onto the London scene in 2006 he helped to further popularise the body-con revival, albeit in a carefully constructed manner that never looked cheap or retro. Since then Schwab has presented collections that verge on avante-garde whilst staying feminine, not unlike Sophia Kokosalaki, or Helmut Lang (Schwab is half Greek , half Austrian no less).

Always embracing unusual textures and fabrication and reigning them back to the female form for an off kilter femininity. From Winter 2010.

A Schwab take on evening wear. The pearls serve as the only decoration, and are integral to the construction of the dress. Winter 2011.

Exploring the difference between light and darkness with mesh and transparency. The darts, like the pearls before them, fulfil two roles. Spring 2012.

Also from Spring 2012, Schwab explores lines in lingerie, a recurring theme in his practice. His father owned a lingerie factory in Athens.

Roksanda Illincic (Tuesday February 21, 11am)
Known for her bold approach to colours and strong solid shapes, and a tendency to exaggerate elements of her garments to super proportions, creating a dreamy, elegant and modern approach to fashion.

Pre fall 2012, exploring blocking with the primary colour palette of LEGO building blocks.

The unassuming, for Illincic, front of a simple shift surprises with an unexpected 'exit' back. Pre fall 2012.

Fall 2011, an evening ensemble.

A candy pink organza concoction with enlarged head scarf from spring 2011.

Neon pastels from Spring 2012. All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Milan (o) (presented by Canon) the ultimate in cut, Eurotrash and sex, a real family affair!

Highlights: (again too many, but I'll try for a mix of established and fresh names)

Aquilano.Rimondi (Sunday February 26, 7pm)
The duo formerly known as 6267, and the just recently outed designers at Gianfranco Ferre, have been for years steadily building a loyal following (yours truly included!) with their excruciatingly sophisticated and decorated collections.

From Fall 2010, embellishment to the max with the beaded edge and feathered body, this coat needs nothing else but a little slip of a dress and an attitude!

A staggered degrade of texture with impeccable control of each fabric; a heavy but pleasurable silhouette from Fall 2011.

Uplifting colour with classic and perfectionly balanced cut from Spring 2011.

Layer upon layer of sequins shows an intricate 3D relief which swirls around the body and is given a subtle pop but nice clean finish with the prim and proper shirt in pastel.
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Prada (Thursday February 23, 6pm)
The powerhouse of powerhouses, but a necessary and deserving inclusion in any highlights listing, Miuccia has been at the forefront of textile experimentation since the 1990s and has a knack for setting the shape for seasons to come.

From Autumn Winter 2007 came the 'simple but strange' collection, where the shapes were boxy and square, but the fabrics curled, bubbled and rose on their own in a compelling and unsettling manner.

Autumn Winter 2011 saw a return to the typical Prada silhouette of a mix of the 1960s, '20s and 40s, strong narrow lines, more often than not above the knee, and that over the top embellishment using plastic discs.

Spring 2010 saw a high sun sheen on fabrications and prints were of a tropical tourist beach scape.

The outstanding and iconic Spring 2011 collection saw an explosion of colour, bananas and monkeys on drop waisted shapes or conversely circular shoulders and straight skirts.
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Bottega Veneta (Saturday February 25, 9:30am)
Originally a family based accessories company known for its signature 'intrecciato' basket-weave technique. Under the guidance of Gucci group and creative director Tomas Maier, the house's ready-to-wear line now flourishes of its own accord, providing the highest in luxury, everyday options, and getting better every season.

Autumn Winter 2007, an important collection in establishing the right direction of Bottega Veneta's clothing. Simple yet dynamic, subtle and elegant.

A simple yet beautifully cut pant suit with masculine tones is kept feminine and edgy with the gold accessories, from Autumn Winter 2010.

For Autumn Winter 2011, Maier's effortless cocktail dressing shone through; of course plenty of effort went into the construction of each piece, they are deceivingly simple and that's why they work.

In Spring 2012, real saturated colour appeared on the Bottega Veneta runway for almost the first time, a step away from the usual pastels and muted tones. Is this a sign of the future?
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Paris Fashion Week (presented by the French Federation of Haute Couture and Ready to Wear Designers) is the home of fashion, where it all happens. It is the dream of all designers to present their collection here and follow in the footsteps of fashion's greats!

Seeing as Paris is just over one month away the schedule has not yet been announced, however historically there is never much dramatic movement between the seasons.

Highlights: (Where to start!!)

Anthony Vaccarello (Day One around 6pm)
One of the hot new Belgians on the block, Vaccarello graduated from Brussels' La Cambre and won the competition at Hyeres Festival. The following year, the ANDAM prize was his. Short, tight and cut out is look, though 3 seasons in there is sure to be an added maturity and an expansion on the vision.

Given its own take on 'less is more', the precision in the cut of this mini-dress can clearly be seen. From Spring 2012.

The penultimate 'dress', or carefully placed wisp of cloth, from Spring 2012, is perfect for a hot night around the city of lights.

Like a late '80 early '90s Alaia without the bulk, this dress, from Winter 2011, apart from its somewhat 'modest' top, leaves almost nothing to the imagination from the navel down.

Cut-out body hugging knit dress, almost hosiery style patterning lends a further 'nudity' to preceedings to Winter 2011.
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Dries Van Noten: (Day Two around 3pm)
No introduction is necessary for Dries, the softly spoken and fastidious designer whose use of vibrant prints and traditional artisan techniques has forged a unique and unmistakable signature resounding all over the fashion world.

Fall 2009, loose belted coats, pleated tapered pants, broken up abstract prints, and this effortless combination of four colours and printed shoes in one outfit.

Fall 2010, an emphasis on hip volume and loose pants, jersey cut off sleeve jumpers with long silk skirts and a revival of contrast sleeves which takes off at every high street chain around the world. Stunning.

Fall 2011, inspired by Najinsky and Bowie and '70s wallpaper prints. Each garment is subtley asymmetrical which leads the eye around the body.

Spring 2009, one of Dries' most iconic collections. Clashing coloured or monochromatic square prints, chunky gold and silver beaded necklaces and an all over wearability and ease for everyone's wardrobe.
All images taken from www.style.com

Lanvin (Day Four around 5:30pm)
Alber Elbaz was a victim of power struggles and his career at Yves Saint Laurent ended prematurely in 2001. A sign if there ever was one, his move to Lanvin signalled a new era in understated luxury, distinctive draping and season after season of absolute desirability.

Fall 2008, to that point his most on point outing. Pieces such as this spliced ribbon dress translate from work, to dinner, to cocktails and to the club.

One of the signatures of Lanvin as we know it; ruffles that create an outline for the eye to follow around the rest of the piece, and I always love a long leg, as seen at Spring 2010.

From Spring 2011, this simple look encapsulates why Lanvin is the choice for subdued yet stylish women all over the world. Take a jacket for work, swap the skirt for jeans for play, so many possibilities.

Elbaz does embellishments as good as the rest of them, though his never look gaudy or without purpose. From Spring 2012

The finale of Autumn Winter 2011, a tour de force collection of silk gazar drapery in exciting and newly proportioned volumes, yum!
All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

And voila! Fashion month a la Yahav is over! Feel free to read this post slowly and over a few days, it certainly is a lot to digest at once, or just enjoy the pretty pictures!
xx

Kanye West, fashion and music festivals.

2012-01-30T00:50:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers!
Yesterday I had the pleasure of being surprised by a great friend with a ticket to the 20th anniversary of the legendary music festival Big Day Out at the Flemington Racecourse. In my earlier days I had always been to the festival while it was housed at the Showgrounds, and as such was a little disorientated by the layout, let alone that I could hardly recognise the site as housing the Spring Racing Carnival only a few months earlier!
Also, the headliner had traditionally been a superstar rock group, including the Foo Fighters, Red Hot Chili Peppers or Powderfinger.
This year was an altogether different story, with none other than Kanye West, 'Yeezy' or 'ye', taking up main stage closing honours. Now I must admit to a little cheating, I YouTubed, I believe it is already a verb much like Googled, a clip of Kanye at the Gold Coast event, so I had a fair idea of what to expect during parts of the set, or rather, show.
After British band Kasabian finished, squeezed just between the two barriers, I could make out the hyraulic platform on which he would suddenly appear and sing the opening song, and in a moment of pre-starstruck-dom, planted myself as close to the contraption as possible, to either be able to reach out and make contact, or as I put it, to see whether or not Kanye would still be wearing his favoured 'Celine' blouse from the spring/summer 2011 collection.
He did not disappoint, but I must point out that he debuted the outfit at the also legendary rock festival Coachella in California in April 2011. As a self professed fashion lover, who was able to fulfil his passion by presenting a womenswear collection, a year later, on the official schedule at Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2012, I confess I found this a little odd. Is it a product placement campaign stating the blouse must be worn, or does he really really love it?

The Celine blouse at Coachella 2011, and as seen on the runway in Paris. Image taken from style.mtv.com, thanks :)

Perhaps the best representation of the back of the blouse as taken by the very excited me at yesterday's Big Day Out.

There was simply no doubt that Kanye's performance was fantastic, give or take a little too much live Auto-tune to add effect or perhaps mask a not so super hot singing voice, though this of course is not secret. As a non R'n'B lover I was taken aback by the wonder that is 'My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy'. I, like many, felt it transcended genre and showed depth in writing, arrangement and production.
The stage was covered totally in white, with a giant backdrop of (thanks to some quick Wikipedia via Google research) a battle scene featuring Athena, the city Goddess of Pergamon and the Giant Alkyoneus.

As the intro dramatic intro music played and the 22 ballerinas from the 'Runaway' video ran madly across the stage as a distraction, the platform rose just in front of us and there was Kanye, rapping the title track from his most recent solo album (and of course ironically, or not, a lyric mentions his female companion 'in that new Phoebe Philo'.
But back to fashion.
As the set was about to draw to a close (a generous 30 minutes of extra music, or maybe spoken word, either way) Kanye lay on his back and launched into a monologue about following his dreams, coming to New York, recording for the first time, being 'lost in the world, down on my life and new in the city', and urging us to set our goals as high as possible, he touched on the fact that he'd found a new passion in clothing, and that (paraphrased) 'believe me, none of those people want me there'.
Now of course I found this particularly interesting. As you know I have been obsessed with fashion since I was 11 years old; drawing, draping, cutting and sewing designs, collecting a mountain of fashion print material from all over the world and visiting designer boutiques and department stores to really understand how things work.
Not to judge too harshly, and of course having been shown six months ago much has been written, but Kanye's Paris collection was a little bit of hodge-podge, a bit of Balmain, a bit Celine, some old Helmut Lang, maybe Givenchy or Herve Leger, nothing was truly amazing or original, and there did not seem to be a central idea or concept driving the collection's shapes, fabric choices or finishings (simple design school fare...).

Kanye West spring/summer 2012, photos taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

If his new found career is indeed fashion design, and it is not simply a vanity project, it is now February and Fashion Month is about to start. Having spent time with a label who shared the Paris runway with Kanye, I can tell you, though I'm sure you know, it takes much longer than 4 weeks to put together a good, consistent and cutting edge collection.
If I were Kanye, the minute the Australia tour is over, I would scoot back to my studio, hang my measuring tape and snippers around my neck and get cracking on winter 2012/2013!
Thank you for reading my sermon and I will try and be less wordy next time :)
xx

All things croc.

2012-01-25T05:53:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers!
Haute Couture season is upon us, and I, and surely you too, have been flicking relentlessly through all the images available on the various website, namely www.style.com.
One thing has struck me is that there is a lot of crocodile about. Stamping, print, and of course the real thing.
You all know that I love Giambattista Valli, from his work at Ungaro to the edgy 1950s sensibility of his own line. Here is what I think is the perfect croc vest; extremely waisted and with no extra trimmings so all focus is on the narrow waist and that beautifully billowing peplum hip, difficult enough to achieve with wool and horsehair canvas let alone with crocodile skin.
And of course the matching skirt, straight and to the knee. I think there would be women out there who would wear the two together, and what a mighty force that would be (not to mention the price-tag!)

Both images are taken from vogue.com.au, thank you :)

Now amid the major speculation surrounding who will take over from John Galliano at Dior, the 'acting' designer Bill Geytten sent out a collection full of the grand silhouettes Galliano, and of course Christian Dior four circles before him, is remembered for. Tulle, embroidery and all the hallmarks of couture are here, and yes, plenty of croc! I love the simplicity of cut in these jackets; invisible closures, the way the darts help define the hip shaping and the combination of tailored and slouchy. The 'wrap' vest outfit, which seems to swathe around the body as if made from silk. The last two looks might not even actual croc, (a little help here...), but the texture is undoubtedly that of the luxury hide. Either way subtlety of the wider cut neck and dropped shoulder line lend a softer, cooler edge. And nothing beats a big jacket with nothing on the bottom, well, apart from a wispy chiffon pleated skirt of course!

All photos taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

How could you not be just stunned by the work in the Riccardo Tisci collection for Givenchy? Impossible not to be. The fact the every single scale was separately cut then reassembled to the dress worn by Stella Tennant is beyond belief and shows what couture is all about. Here you can see the back, just as important as the front, (and don't they forget it sometimes!), and also the rest of the ten outfit collection, as I just love big fashion group shots.

All images from www.style.com, thanks :)

Finally, well. till today, the Armani Privee collection (and I should totally learn how to type the accent, oops). While mostly focussed on snake, there were a few croc moments, and in such colours too! Fantastic peaked shoulders, though not as over the top as those by Margiela in 2007, provide a great anchor for the rest of the jackets to fall from, and although it may be a leap, I definitely see croc in the print on the gown, and even the bustier looks like croc made from green tinged rocks. Correct me if I'm wrong of course!

All images taken from www.style.com, thanks :)

Haute couture week continues for a few more days, and as I write this, one of the masters and one of my favourites of course, Jean-Paul Gaultier is about the start his show, and I hazard a guess that there will be croc featured here too, I'll have to update tomorrow! Enjoy! xx

New dress.

2012-01-22T20:33:00.000-08:00

Hello dear Paris '99ers, I hope you in Melbourne are enjoying this mini heat wave, and that like me, you can take advantage of the sun by enjoying outdoor drinks and company.
I recently visited Darn Cheap fabrics on Glenhuntly Rd, and was pleasantly surprised they were in the midst of a sale, so I stocked up on some beautifully subtle striped burgundy silk, and a silk cotton mix in the same construction. As you know, I'm totally feeling burgundy in the air, and of course in my fashion eliteness, can only imagine what synthetic fabrics would feel like as I work very hard to totally avoid these!
So here is the result (still in progress) of my draping and cutting of this newly bought fabric.
I enjoy the way the wind dictates what happens to the drape of the dress as most of the seams are not completely stitched down, thus allowing for air to breeze through and change the fall. I also have left the fabric as organic as possible, raw edges abound, and the selvedge used as I find the holes quite beautiful.
Of course this dress will be on the mannequin for a while, until I make another one!
xx

First yoke try, clearly too much fabric, nowhere near sexy enough...

Some adjustments to be made.

Better :)

Love the back yoke shape!

First time the silk is introduced.

As much as I like the back in this design I decided to keep it long and flowing. And don't worry, I have more of the silk left so there will be more exploration in tops, skirts, or even as part of a jacket!

The front panel is the width of the fabric and the back is the two left-over triangles layered over each other and tacked at intervals on the sides.

Reveals at back, and down below is the almost too high centre back slit. Hope you like!

My dear friend Bea!

2012-01-18T02:34:00.000-08:00

Hello my dears!
Today I had the absolute pleasure of rekindling my physical friendship with my dear friend Bea who has been living in Amsterdam for the last two years. Bea and I completed the Fashion Design program at RMIT together and actually lived together in Amsterdam in 2007 as part of our studies. She is truly one of my closest friends, no matter the distance between us.
Seeing as Bea had arrived in Melbourne just over 24 hours ago following a delay in Asia and all she wanted to do today was to sleep, I felt very special indeed when the first thing she actually did was drop straight into Paris '99! Really she hasn't stopped hearing about the salon but was a well established Amsterdamienne when it all came to be.
Bea is a blast with so many things going on all that time and all that carefree cycling in Amsterdam is definitely a good way to keep trim and terrific, just look at how all these amazing pieces become even more amazing on her!

Bea in the sparkling Badgley Mischka Couture sequined/beaded jacket. I love a nipped waist with slightly rounded shoulder!

Rocking the early '60s with a literal twist! Cropped jacket and chevron flared skirt by Carolina Herrera and draped silk top by Sharon Wauchob.

This is one of my favourite dresses in my whole collection, the Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa spring 2007 campaign dress. The free-flow cascading pleat anchors the diaphanous floating upper layer and when the light hits it you can see the body hugging silk mesh corset. Just so you know, Bea had not seen this image (courtesy of frillr.com) when she struck this pose. What a regular Natalia Vodianova :)

And we let loose just enough with the crinkled leather Undercover bikie style pants but kept it classy with the Oscar De La Renta silk tie-front top. If you know the scroop sound of silk, this is one of the scroopiest I've heard! (and it is now SOLD!)

Thank you Bea for a lovely afternoon, welcome back to Melbourne and I know we'll see plenty more of you before you take off again! xx

Balenciaga shoe dinner!

2012-01-14T19:19:00.000-08:00

Hello dear Paris '99ers!
Now a few weeks ago a dear friend of mine fell in love with a pair of the most divine Balenciaga glamazon heels at the salon. I asked her sometime later how they were and she candidly revealed she had not yet worn them. Shocking indeed!

It was decided then and there that the shoes were to have a 'debut' dinner at a fabulous restaurant in Melbourne, and I had read about an Italian institution, Cantina Cecconi's on Flinders Lane.
Holiday season was right around the corner so we postponed the date till the new year, but something came up and the dates shifted, then something else came up and we had to shuffle again. Finally, last night, it was third time lucky!

I didn't take any photos of me actually wearing my clothes (sorry), but I was wearing a red star print shirt and a tailored vest from a Napoli tailor under my favourite Dries Van Noten iridescent red 'dinner' jacket. Accessorised with an Alexis Belcher laser cut perspex brooch on a silver necklace and my handmade boots from a gentleman in old Jaffa. I actually have three pairs of boots by him, black riding boots, 'Hermes orange' slightly narrow round toe boots and these, the caramel stacked heel calf highs. Unfortunately he has since retired and vanished without a trace. Oh and yes, I did have pants on too, Surface 2 Air fitted jeans, nice :).

By a stroke of good luck I got the last free parking spot a stone's throw from the restaurant. It set the mood for what was a delightful and delicious evening with friends, food and shoes!
Nicoletta, the beautiful hostess, warmly greeted me with a glass of Mumm while the girls were on their way.

We were given the best spot, with prime viewing position of the organised hustle and bustle of the kitchen, and the ability to see and comment on what other diners were wearing, and it certainly was a fashionable and well put together crowd!
Starting our feast with crusty bread in olive oil and wonderfully potent balsamic vinegar dip, we moved on to an appetizer of beautifully cured meat cut nail thin and served with a fig that could have come straight from the garden, it was that fresh. The dish was a flat black cross section of a pebble; just stunning.

My Angus Sirloin steak was the best steak I've eaten in a very very long time, and when combined with the crisp then silky smooth polenta chips, it was texture heaven.

Admittedly, it was all about the dessert: a chocolate pudding that was a like a dark river of liquid chocolate just waiting to be released, and then a literal explosion with the straciatella ice-cream laced with popping candy (excuse my uncultured palette, its what I felt like I was eating!), a creamy citrus parfait with a powerful passionfruit sorbet and scatterings of freeze dried raspberry and 'snow', and a rich panna cotta with sweet almond biscuit and a surprise chocolate ganache at the bottom of the bowl. Need I say more?

We know that food and fashion aren't always associated with one another (ok, minus the Prada and Stella McCartney fruit themed collections of last spring, and the Dolce & Gabbana vegetable printed frocks from the current show), but thanks to these fabulous heels for bringing us to Cecconi's, and many thanks to Nicoletta and the lovely staff; we really need to find an excuse to come back!

Literally the most amazing dress ever!

2012-01-09T18:51:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers! I just could not contain my excitement for this dress, it is literally the most amazing dress ever! (As per the title of this post ;)) (Love the double bracket smiley face combo haha)! Enjoy, and come and see it in person to share the love!

People always ask me how I can part with all of the beautiful pieces I am surrounded by every day, and its hard, I do get attached to almost everything. I mean I am attached the minute I decide something has to be a part of the salon, and when it arrives in person I'm 99.5% happy, with the very occasional misstep, but even so I understand I am a conduit, connecting beautiful clothes to beautiful women in Melbourne, and I let them go to a happier home, and someone who can actually wear them!

Well let me tell you about this dress, it may just be the exception! From the minute my friend in New York swayed around in it when I first saw it, I knew it would be amazing, but I could only imagine it.

The dress is a custom made for the ball Luca Luca, and regular visitors to the salon will know that I have always loved it, and its not available anywhere else. Founded in New York in the early 90s by Italian Luca Orlandi, its very Upper East Side; glamourous, luxurious and gorgeously put together, for the gorgeously put together woman. For a stage in the early 2000s the label turned in direction of the 'new young things', catering to the New York party scene and even the Hilton sisters.

In 2008 Raul Mendoza took over from Orlandi as creative director and brought a new freshness and refinement, bridging the gap for everyone, with beautifully designed and lovingly produced wardrobe pieces for everywhere, all the time.

Back to the dress. Now my postman is a bit all over the place, but of course morning deliveries are my favourite, and the box arrived with morning, shipped Express with my friend's name on the box, and tightly wrapped in tape. I was already itching with anticipation, and to not by some terrible mistake damage the contents I slowly unwrapped layer after layer of tape, getting both irritated and now almost exploding with excitement.

And then the box was open. And under a few layers of tissue paper, and a garment back fit only for a gown of its magnitude, there it was!

I grabbed a hanger, placed the hang tapes on its sides, and in one big, dramatic swing of my arm lifted the gown right out the box and seriously almost screamed; it is absolutely stunning! (See title once more.)

The fabric is a crispy dense silk organza, it crunches in the hand, super scroop, for all you textile heads.

The floral print is huge, and has to be, to stay balanced with the massive skirt that booms underneath the neatly fitted corset bodice. The under layers are made of metres and metres of tulle, providing the perfect amount of volume, as expected there is hand finishing everywhere and its all finished with a hand folded watermelon silk crepe belt.

If theres is one piece I will find hard to part with, its is undoubtedly this dress!

All photos are copyright Yahav Ron 2012.

Things I like!

2012-01-07T16:54:00.000-08:00

So I literally just realised I can blog from my phone, new discovery of the year! This means the whole process of posting will become a lot more organic and easy, hooray.

As you would know, fashion is life, and life is good, and therefore fashion should be good. Narciso Rodriguez is one of my all time favourite designers; well most designers have a place in my favorites as I don't discriminate, but the perceived ease, delicateness and refinement of Rodriguez's pieces just have me hooked. I say perceived, as with all minimalist design, practice makes perfect. The beautiful lines and perfectly body fitting silhouettes are due to hours of painstaking work for a better fit, smoother seam, a finer result.

Now of course as I write this post I realise I actually haven't quite figured out how to add images from the phone, but don't worry, first the words, then the pictures! Above will be an image of the workings of a jacket, as seen in the book Narciso Rodriguez as published by Rizzoli. I promise you it's beautiful.

Of course I love a beautiful dress, and no-one does a subdued and elegant gown like Rodriguez. See images of Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker and Uma Thurman to prove. That blue dress with the square panel suspended in the back and then dreamily cascading to the mercy of the breeze, to borrow from a certain stylist of our times, one could 'die'.
And the subtly yet somewhat overtly sexy red number, shown with gorgeous designer himself, I love the colour, and also what it says about the woman wearing it: powerful, lusty and in control, stunning.
The gorgeous gown as worn by Uma again speaks to me for its small changes which make it so much more than just a Hollywood style halter-neck. The way the side cleavage is revealed almost to the point of no return but stops just before it, the curving seams that send our eyes in and around her beautiful form (and not just her, the effect would be the same for any wearer) and bring us to the explosion of fabric just above the knee, perfection.

Now this isn't a plug, I just have to share a couple of Narciso things that are currently at Paris '99. The stunning cotton body-con (but never in knit with Rodriguez)dress which pushes everything up and in, and is, as expected, immaculately constructed with a contrast white binding on the inside, and the almost charmeuse bubble hem dress which floats lighter than air and is alluring by leaving it to the imagination of the observer; one of my favourite ways of sexy dressing.

Now please forgive my brazen attempt at blogging minus pictures, but they will follow almost immediately, after a few emails from phone to computer. I really am a stickler for more simple times haha!
Much love and till next week x

PS. Here's to learning as you go; thanks to Edit Post everything is in its right place without too much trouble, amazing! ;)
xx

Longest post ever!

2011-11-18T04:21:00.000-08:00

Hello Paris '99ers! I realise that due to my absolutely dismal discipline when it comes to blogging some of you may think that I had stopped, but oh no, all is well here at Paris '99, the sun is shining, the champagne is flowing and the clothes are plentiful! I give you the mother of all posts, a load of new arrivals, to take you through to the next post which will certainly come sooner than this one! xx

Alexander McQueen lace applique silk blouse, need I say more ;), divine. Sz 42 (Fits 8-10-12) Now SOLD

Wow, Chloe buckle closure small leather bag with two compartments and though unseen is on a long leather strap with metal hardware loops and buckles, perfect for across the body in summer, and of course winter too! Now SOLD

This jacket shows what an amazing cut with a bit of detail will do. Jean-Paul Gaultier long line blazer with black pearl necklace detail. The necklace clicks into the larger stone and can be worn open or doubled back on the neck. The little ribbon detail provides an excellent balance, just so Gaultier! Now SOLD

Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme acetate/polyester blazer, silk lined, Sz It44 (Fits Aus 10-12)

Bam! Divine Givenchy vibrant orange dress made from swirling silk and finished with an edgy corset back. This one seriously won't last.
Givenchy Paris silk dress, Sz 36 (Fits Aus 6-8)

Stunning Versace Spring 2001 printed cowl neck dress. If this is not the 'dressonification' of summer colour I don't know what is!

Gianni Versace Couture printed viscose dress, sz It44 (fits Aus 8-10)

The fabric has to be felt and the finishing details have to been seen to really appreciate this jacket by the unfortunately defunct New York label Tuleh. It is a sturdy duchess satin which really gives strength to the boxy design and when worn with a skinny jean and clashing hat is a perfect autumn fashion jacket. Love it! Now SOLD

Tuleh New York double breasted 'pea' coat in duchess satin, sz US6 (Aus 8-10)

Back to Versace, this amazing printed patent leather evening bag with metal frame and chain is going to be stunning on the amazing woman who bought it literally the minute it touched down this morning. With plenty of space and a weight to be reckoned with its simply covetable! Now SOLD

Is it tweed, is it boucle, is it a houndstooth, a herringbone, a check? I can't tell you! This is a really intricately constructed fabric that eschews definition, apart from the fact that it is amazingly used in this perfectly fitting Michael Kors skirt suit. The jacket fits like a glove the has little rounded cap sleeves to just accentuate the shoulder line, while the skirt is just so lady-like and completes the look. With black pumps Carli Bruni would be jealous!

Michael Kors made in Italy skirt suit, sz US 6 (Aus 10)

Iconic Junya Watanabe destroyed denim jacket. Intricately constructed to swirl around the body in a snail like manner is this jacket from the untouchable Japanese master Watanabe. I like his work as regardless of the bombast, stiffness, or volume of his work, it always relates back to the female form and as such is amazingly flattering. Gorgeous! Now SOLD

Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons pieced denim jacket, sz S (Aus 8-10)

From one fabulous jacket to the next, is this Veronique Branquinho collarless skinny fit jacket with what can only be described as three perfectly folded pleats taking up the job of a lapel. I have matching pants for this jacket too, they will be uploaded soon in a pants special post.

Veronique Branquinho grey woollen collarless jacket with sharp narrow shoulders, sz 38 (Aus 8-10)

Back with the warmer weather pieces, this Marni silk chiffon 'dry flower' printed top is gorgeous for layering, and the drawstring detailing can be left loose or gathered tightly for a complete change of mood.

Marni printed silk chiffon top, size It 44 (Fits Aus 8-10-12)

Keeping on cute sheer printed numbers is this simply gorgeous Roland Mouret back button gathered shoulder blouse with its abstract print. I love this top for its youth, allure, sexiness minus vulgarity, all the things for which Roland Mouret is known! Now SOLD

Roland Mouret back button silk blouse, sz UK 8 (fits Aus 6-8)

And to leave you on a positively summer note are these Pierre Hardy architectural peep toe mesh pumps with stunning heel, perfect for the hot days that seem to be here to stay.

Pierre Hardy structured white mesh heels, sz 40 but fit more like 39.

I hope this keeps you all occupied and excited for the next little while, there are more fabulous pieces to be seen soon, but remember that to keep bringing you more, these gorgeous items have to find themselves loving homes, so remember to contact through the blog, via email on enquire@paris99.net or on +61 424 583 409 to make an arrangement to visit the beautiful salon in Elwood, and friends are encouraged of course!

Till next time adieu from Paris '99 xx

Forest greenery Ferretti

2011-10-16T19:08:00.000-07:00

Hello!
Please enjoy this new arrival Alberta Ferretti forest green silk satin, chiffon, lace and beaded top. I love this piece for its transeasonal beauty; right now, all it needs is a pair of light wide legged pants and summer is a breeze, and in the winter a gorgeous knit fitted bustier or bodysuit and a narrow pencil skirt! The lace is cut so intricately and the beaded leaf that can be snapped on for evening or off for day adds that touch of Italian glamour. Perfect!
Alberta Ferretti mainline silk lace and bead leaf detail top, Sz Italian 42 (Fits Aus 6).

Remember to contact through the blog, email on enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to arrange a time to visit the gorgeous Salon in Elwood.

Badgley Mischka dazzles!

2011-10-07T18:05:00.000-07:00

I don't know if I have mentioned this already, but I really like American designers and feel that here in Melbourne they are definitely under appreciated and almost unseen! What could be more amazing than this Badgley Mischka Couture silk crepe beaded sheer detailed dress? Not a lot, indeed!
This is American 'sportswear' at its finest; beautiful fabric, attention to detail, a streamlined and body conscious fit and of course the touch of Hollywood Glamour with a touch of restraint. I love how the back has been paid attention to with the small reveal of skin without being vulgar, and the bead work on the front is just so intricate and 'right'. Best of all this dress will be enjoyed and impressive at an upcoming pre-races ball! Perfect!
Badgley Mischka Couture beaded sheer details silk cocktail dress, sz US 4 (Aus 8) SOLD

Remember to contact through the blog, via email enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to arrange a time to visit us in person at the gorgeous salon in Elwood. Enjoy!

Dear Alison!

2011-10-06T23:14:00.000-07:00

Hello all,
I would like to introduce you all to a new but certainly dear friend of mine Alison Waters. Alison has had an illustrious past; she has experienced the height of London through her work at the fabulous and legendary BIBA, started on her own by looking after visiting philosophers and of course has a permanent place in Melbourne's history by bringing the life to every party she attends!
Alison has amassed a famous collection of hats (more than 300), perhaps the most amazing one I have seen is over 120 years old from France and features the most stunning and shiny featherwork from some exotic game bird. Of course the one pictured below is divine, and the Costume National dress from the Salon is spot on perfect with it!
Costume National panelled silk dress with cut out back, SOLD to a fabulous friend!

Newly come and gone

2011-10-01T00:25:00.000-07:00

Hello, its a rainy day once again, can't spring finally break through!
This is a selection of new arrivals and also some amazing pieces that have come and gone and actually you lovely internet darlings never got to see :(

I loved this simply stunning Gianfranco Ferre golden silk jacket. With an abundance of details; the lightly pleated cuffs, the wide 1940s lapels and puff sleeves and the impeccable contrast silk binding and organza panel at the double vent on the interior (unfortunately unseen), it was bound to impress and it certainly did!
Gianfranco Ferre golden silk jacket, sz Italian 40 (Aus 8) NOW SOLD

This was a real stunner too. Donna Karan Collection, only the best of course! I loved the abundance of buttons that help to define the line of the top and add a little subtle sparkle on the cuffs. The silk chiffon is pleated organically that gives the piece that extra lightness, and the stretch back keeps it all together. Its one to take to the office, to dinner, to a costume ball, and in fact I know its been to all three!
Donna Karan Collection pleated elasticated sleeve button detail stretch back blouse, sz Italian 40 (Aus 8) NOW SOLD

Wow! I got excited by this one of a kind number! One of the strongest purveyors of body conscious and sexy dressing is Antonio Berardi. This piece hits that on the nose; the corset jean all-in-one, and its amazing! When summer finally hits it will surely be a go-to piece for any party hopping, beach loving lady, and she most probably will not even be from Melbourne. I love its unabashed youth and playfulness, and as one would expect, its fit, finish and construction is tip top!
Antonio Berardi corset denim half overall, sz Italian 40 (Aus 6)

Narciso Rodriguez is one of my all-time favourite designers. I love the absolute precision in cut and slowly evolving nature of his work and this ensemble is a perfect example. The fabric is an amazing hemp mohair silk mix, and is nothing short of luxurious. The dress is strapless, but there are two fine straps which a somewhere between a halter and sweetheart neckline, and the panelling on the bodice is just lovely, subtly 3D with every part bound and lined in silk. The big metal zip at the back gives it a harder and not too pretty feel, something which Narciso does so well! Then jacket; the little boxy cropped shaped raglan bolero. I love how it lifts the outfit to the next level, and of course can be worn on its own with a pair of fitted jeans and a tank; the slightly loose silhouette showing the space between garment and body. Its just great!
Narciso Rodriguez hemp, mohair, silk strapless dress and cropped jacket, sz Italian 42 (Aus 8) Now SOLD.

Remember to contact us through the blog, email enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to arrange a time to visit the salon in Elwood.

Rays of Vionnet!

2011-09-28T20:32:00.000-07:00

Wow, 10 days without a post, I'm sorry, but I'm sure this one dress will more than make up for it. I've been waiting for this one for a couple of weeks and finally, with extra insurance in tow, it has arrived! That's right, from designer Rodolfo Paglialunga for the legendary house of Vionnet, known for her mathematically precise approach to pattern making, is this simply stunning gold sunray pleat train halter gown! As I took it out of the box I could feel my heartbeat hasten I was that excited; and it certainly met all my expectations. The bodice is painstakingly pintucked to create the shaped panel that end at the almost empire line height band, and then the 1930's glamour spills out in sunray pleats, and though I haven't measured I really think there are about 6metres of fabric in the hem. It's just gorgeous, and even my hand help iPhone photos still do it justice. Enjoy!

Vionnet gold sunray pleat halter top; silk, viscose, polyamide mix, sz French 40 (Aus 10)

Remember to contact via the blog, email enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to arrange a time to visit the salon in Elwood x.

Paris '99 at L'Heure du The!

2011-09-19T17:56:00.000-07:00

On Saturday I was kindly invited to attend the L'Heure du The high tea at the Langham Hotel to help raise funds for breast cancer research and celebrate all things French! It was a fabulous morning with yummy eats, teas and treats and everyone looked dressed up to go for a promenade on any good Parisian boulevard! Thanks so much to Kyra Pybus who looked just ravishing in her Luca Luca dress from Paris '99, as previously seen on the blog. Photo courtesy Cecylia Kee.

Remember to contact via the blog, email enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to arrange a visit to the salon in Elwood.

Dior spring summer 1999 campaign!

2011-09-15T17:18:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the long time no update, its been somewhat hectic here at Paris '99! Here is a quick one before the storm of updates to show all the new fabulous pieces that have arrived in the last couple of days!
On its way, and I should totally not jinx this by showing it early, but I believe in the system and as such will show you the campaign image with Bridget Hall for Dior ss1999; the Chinese collection. We are getting the whole silhouette from a good friend in Switzerland; top, pants and shoes, cant wait, and will post seperate shots on arrival!

In the meantime remember to contact through the blog, email on enquire@paris99.net or directly call on +61424583409 to arrange a visit to the lovely salon in Elwood.

Cape magic!

2011-09-09T21:12:00.000-07:00

This morning I had the pleasure of entertaining for brunch a fabulous stylist and gorgeous PR agent. We enjoyed some fresh cheeses, Paris style toast, prosciutto and various sweets and it was a great way to spend the day. Of course clothing played an important role and suffice to say an amazing piece found the perfect home!
Veronique Branquinho, of the second group of Antwerp designers, was known for her 60s inspired silhouettes, though always with a dark edge. Pretty blouses pared back with heavy tweed pants or long chiffon skirts worn with a tough motor-bike style jacket. This piece fits into the Romantically Tough category, the Edwardian style charcoal woollen cape with leather buttons and drama galore. I'm so pleased it found the right person, and I know she'll love it forever. Now SOLD

Remember to contact through the blog, email enquire@paris99.net or phone directly on +61424583409 to make an arrangement to visit the lovely salon in Elwood.

A cool spring day.

2011-09-08T21:47:00.000-07:00

Hello, its a somewhat underwhelming spring day in Melbourne, hot then cold, rain then sun, typical I guess. Here are some spring-y yet cool-y pieces to get you through days like this!

I love the feel of this gorgeous Narciso Rodriguez sheep suede top. Essentially made of two rectangles with a slit in the front to create a deep 'V', it just hangs beautifully off the body. With a relaxed and slopey shoulder and slight asymmetry in the hem at the front its definitely not something seen regularly.
Narciso Rodriguez khaki sheep suede top, size Italian 42 (Aus 8-10)

Made from the lightest of wools and cut high in the waist and fitted through the hips is this vintage Hermes kneelength skirt. Its a striking shade of blue which completely fits in with the colour blocking trend making the rounds, not that it matters! Last but not least, there are pockets, great!
Hermes blue wool skirt, size French 40 (but fits more like an Aus 8)

All angles covered here, and they need to be! This is special piece indeed; a aubergine/maroon John Bartlett hand draped and embellished silk dress. Almost like a sari it falls off the shoulder on one side and swathes around the body. Don't worry about modesty, there is a colour matched silk crepe slip the goes to the knee, and the beading is intricately detailed and anchors the dress to the body beautifully.
John Bartlett draped and beaded dress, size 42 (Aus 10)

Et voila, the perfect wintery spring coat! An early Giambattista Valli its a thick coated linen with beige cotton piping. Bracelet length sleeves and military details, detachable epaulettes and regalia metal buttons give it that cold touch, but being a linen its still light enough to wear on breezy spring days, and in fact I'm naughty and its no longer here, but a perfect piece for a day like today! Now SOLD

Hope you enjoyed these pieces too, remember to contact us via the blog, email at enquire@paris99.net or call directly on +61424583409 to make an arrangement to visit the lovely salon in Elwood.

Jean-Paul Gaultier Mania!

2011-09-07T02:09:00.000-07:00

Jean-Paul Gaultier; bondage, prostitutes, the sailor, the trench coat, India, the Fifth Element and of course Paris. The once 'Enfant Terrible' of fashion is now well into the fourth decade of his work and it is as stunning and integral to the dialogue of fashion as ever. Paris '99 has been the conduit for many a Gaultier creations, we simply love everything he does. Please enjoy some of the current selection of Gaultier pieces, showing his great creative range as each one differs from the next!

When I saw this dress I knew it had to be here, its just so incredible. Made of metres and metres of the gathered cotton with the fine metallic stripe erupting from the iconic Gaultier bustier bodice its perfect for swirling up the dance floor at a garden tea party in spring. The ties can be placed in front under the bust, to the centre back for a cute and refined look or in a single or double bow on the side for that extra sense of movement. Those of you in Melbourne gearing up for Spring Racing Carnival must come and have a whirl in this dress!
Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme bustier gathered cotton dress, size Italian 40 (Aus 8-10) Now SOLD

Just arrived yesterday! The Renoir style ballerina scene printed in such detail on this, for lack of a better word, poncho, shows Gaultier's softer side. Actually cut from two rectangles with a neck hole, the viscose drapes beautifully around the body and moves with a spring that brings the whole scene to life! Perfect for an afternoon by the beach or again, a spring time garden party...notice the theme?
Jean-Paul Gaultier Maille Femme ballet printed viscose poncho, size S (but really once size fits all)

Feeling like a little sheer French provincial chic? This snap fasten (set on a lovely grosgrain ribbon, no less) shirt dress in gorgeous viscose crepe is just the one! With slightly puffed sleeves folded back onto the arm tightly, loose hanging front pockets and a double yoke and double faced waist panel its demure yet that little bit naughty. And what may not be clear in the pictures is that wherever one would expect the stripes to meet and match, they do absolutely flawlessly. Its that extra bit of care in finish that takes these pieces just that level higher and its why we love them!
Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme pinstriped viscose crepe shirt dress, size Italian 42 (Aus 10) NOW SOLD to gorgeous lady indeed!

Still in that slightly country, farmer, harvest mood is this Russian style elasticated edgings printed silk bloused top. The fabric has the lightest most ephemeral touch and the print evokes a 70s wheat field get together. The elastic on the hem creates the most lovely swing back shape and then cuts right into the small of the back, which when worn with slim fit pants or pencil skirt lengthens the legs immensely. Just get a hot contrast bra underneath, or relive the no bra days too!
Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme Classique printed silk chiffon top, size Italian 42 (Aus 8-10) Now SOLD

For a tailored jacket with a twist and surprise is this matador red strong shouldered wrap belted number. Made from a bouncy wool gaberdine it features the press stud closure and an almost motor-bike style belted wrap with a heavy brass buckle. The perfect construction can be seen with hand details necessary in a tailored jacket and perfectly finished narrow jet pockets. The greatest surprise is the intricate Parisian scene printed all over the lining, something only you (and anyone who sees this blog of course) know about!
Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme red wrap belted jacket, Italian size 42 (Aus 10) NOW SOLD, amazing!

Wow, this gorgeous woman must have telepathic powers! I got a call about this jacket just as I was starting to blog, so of course I have to put it in to show you all how great it is! I love the colour midnight, darker than navy and a shade short of black. This midnight blue wrap around shirred back bow detail jacket borders on the tasteful side of bondage with its corset tight waist. I can see her wearing it now with cigarette pants and patent leather pumps and running through shadows, sexy and mysterious!
Jean-Paul Gaultier Femme cotton shirred back jacket, size Italian 40 (Aus 6-8) Now SOLD

Finally for today is a real Gaultier staple item, the printed mesh top. Seen in every collection since almost the beginning the printed mesh tops are an icon that send collectors all over the world crazy. This one here is the cardigan that shreds to reveal the muscle tissue and skeleton underneath, and the print is so life-like its scary and gross, yet engrossing and amazing at the same time.
Jean-Paul Gaultier Maille Femme 'shredded cardigan' nylon mesh top, size M

Hope you liked some, if not all, of these Jean-Paul Gaultier offerings from us. Please contact through the blog, via email at enquire@paris99.net or directly by phone on +61424583409 to make an appointment to visit the salon, we'd love to have you over!

I love designer dresses!

2011-09-06T00:49:00.000-07:00

Hello all, I love all designer things of course, but for me a well designed dress is just the ultimate. Short, long, strapless, strapped, sleeved or sans I adore dresses, and clearly in a completely platonic way!
Here are some of my favourites from the salon for you to enjoy.

This is a gorgeous Roland Mouret, who as you know is one of my most respected designers. This is dress that needs to be seen on a body, it just comes alive. The airy ruffle that flirtily covers the back, the slightly structured halter that allows the front to drape and the way the zip is sewn in at an angle in the back that creates the cascade there too is just genius. And of course then theres the print!
Now because we've been getting some size requests on pieces here is the first time we will provide this information too.
Roland Mouret silk digital printed draped dress, size Italian 42 (Aus 8) though narrow in the hip.
Now SOLD to a fabulous fellow fashion lover!

Now unfortunately my shooting skills don't capture this amazing dress to its full potential. Its a Dries Van Noten, and made out of a heavy viscose twill which pulls down the skirt for a really long line. Then, and what you can't see, are the matching godets all through the hem which give it the most lovely movement while walking. Casual without belt, or as seen here with the John Richmond ponyskin wrap-around belt its definitely a dress forever.
Dries Van Noten viscose godet drape dress, size 38 (Aus 8-10).

Now here's something for the woman who wants to be noticed, at a fabulous red carpet event nonetheless!
Luca Luca has been the staple lable for New York society ladies, and their daughters too, for years, and this dress definitely fits the bill. Its made of tiers and tiers of swirled silk organza with a base cut on the bias. The around the body effect is continued with the one shoulder look that is just so right now, and its even more stunning in person of course! Now for the right shoes...
Luca Luca tiered silk organza gown, size Italian 44 (Aus 10-12)

Final one for today is the everlasting Valentino. This dress is from the Valentino collection line, and it shows; melt in the hand silk, a three colour print and hand stitched drape everywhere, its gorgeous. I really think the hand draping gives the dress a personality and of course this would translate to the wearer too, and its just so fun to dance in, the perfect party dress!
Valentino printed silk hand draped dress, size Italian 44 (Aus 8-10) though this dress is quite loose and could accomodate a 12 too.

Hope you enjoyed, remember to contact through the blog, email enquire@paris99.net or directly by phone on +61424583409 to make an appointment to visit the lovely salon, and I've sat on the balcony everyday so far and spring has only just started!

The Age!

2011-08-31T02:05:00.000-07:00

Dear friends, Paris '99 was featured in the Postcode 3000 column by Suzanne Carbone, a dear friend of ours. Due to my slowness regarding blogs I am simply copy/pasting from The Age website for your enjoyment.

Paris '99 a fashionable vintage

WE KNOW retailers are bleeding from online shopping but there's another way fashionistas are parting with their dollars. Yahav Ron (pictured) sells new and pre-loved designer fashion at Paris '99, an appointment-only salon tucked away in Elwood named after his first visit to Gay Paree in 1999. Aged 13, the trip was a bar mitzvah gift and inspired him to sketch clothes and study fashion design at RMIT. The entrepreneurial 26-year-old sources his clothes from well-heeled women in France, Belgium and Holland. A new pink Versace dress with Swarovski crystal halterneck is worth $12,000 but he's selling it for the ''accessible'' price of $1800. ''The salon is for women who share the passion for fashion,'' he said. Ron is speaking at Sunday's Fashion Exposed seminar at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre, the workshop called ''Rethinking [Service] Design''. Service is something retailers are pondering, especially when Ron offers clients a flute of bubbly or cuppa from his balcony.

Read more: http://www.theage.com.au/national/melbourne-life/keeping-up-with-jones-the-collector-20110825-1jcbp.html#ixzz1WayuTkbT

New pieces coming soon, stay tuned :) x

A small selection.

2011-08-29T00:29:00.000-07:00

Hello dear Paris '99ers, here are some beautiful pieces floating and 'hide'-ing, sic leather ;) around the salon at the moment!

This delightful little cashmere jumper with metallic butterfly detail is by Frenchman Gilles Dufour. The gentle nude tones and lightness of the fabric allow for wear throughout the colder months and also into spring when the sun starts to shine! Now SOLD.

Here is one of my favourite pieces by one of my all time favourite designers, Roland Mouret. The French native known of course for the Galaxy dress is also a consumate drapiste; view the video on his website to see what I mean. This bright blue silk wrap blouse features the lightest of tucks for shaping and is weighted down the incredibly intricate beading detail shown. It is all metal, metal threads and glass. Amazing.

One can never be without the perfect suede jacket, and this Malo is just that! I have felt a lot of leather jackets, but few if any have come close to the softness of this one, it literally melts to the touch, and the half lining means the amazing construction details are visible. The slightly gathered peplum at the back works into the similar detail on the cuffs and the 'woven' leather belt make this jacket hot property, and it is! Now SOLD

Still on the leather theme is this absolutely stunning Martin Grant shirt. Made from what really is glove quality leather this shirt with its faggoting details through the front and cuffs is truly the epitome of French/Australian chic. Melbourne born Martin Grant has been working in Paris for the good side of 20 years and of course like all good things is still a bit of a well kept secret. Known for using the highest quality materials and the finest tailoring with an abundance of handwork, this piece takes those talents and applies them to leather. Actually it really fits like a glove! I actually have a leather suit from him on its way from Europe as we speak, so I can't wait to show you when it arrives. Now SOLD

Thanks again, and remember to contact us through the blog or at enquire@paris99.net and of course via phone on +61424583409 to make an appointment to visit the salon. Till next time!

Etro Paisley gorgeousness

2011-08-25T06:18:00.000-07:00

Literally just arrived is this delightful sleeveless top by the Italian print powerhouse Etro. I love the worked simplicity; the simple tucks at the shoulder add a nice weight, the tied belt can allow for a flat fit or some blousing to emphasise the waist even more and the cowl neck can be worn tucked in and clean or pulled out and unruly.Then there's the paisley itself; such great colours, changing proportion, pixelation, its a fabulous print! Our friend thought so too, I pulled it out of the box as she arrived and didn't even get a chance to label it before she snatched it! Now SOLD.

Please contact us via the blog or email enquire@paris99.net or call 0424583409 to ask any questions and arrange a visit to the salon in Elwood. Thanks and enjoy!

Tops Tops Tops, and some skirts

2011-08-23T23:24:00.000-07:00

Hello, here are some newly arrived pieces just in time for spring, which in Elwood has truly arrived!

This Jean-Paul Gaultier floral printed silk blouse is just gorgeous, and shows a softer and more romantic side to the designer known for cone bras and bondage gear. Its great how this piece can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned, tucked in or out, with pants or skirts, truly a versatile piece! And the sheer factor allows for a multitude of underwear options too; black, lacy, nude, sporty, or none at all if you like!
Now SOLD

Wow, anything by Olivier Theyskens give me a fashion high, he's just incredible. Here is a beautifully ephemeral piece designed while he was still at Rochas, and I refer to this one as a 'holding the hanger' piece, it is just so light! The layered front which shows just enough skin without being lude, the little keyhole at the back and the carefully controlled side drape all finished with the self fabric 'rosette' are just so right.

Anything Chanel is welcome here! This is lovely example of the ease with which Karl Lagerfeld designs a blouse. The silk crepe is pleated ever-so-carefully through the front, the hem, around the cuffs and the on the ruff style collar. And for that extra touch of glamour the buttons all have the obligatory CCs finished in the tiniest of crystals, so chic! Now SOLD.

Even after the man's fall from grace earlier this year what is left from John Galliano is the stunning and unmistakable work. The signature homage to the glamour of the 1930s and the bias cut, popularised in that decade can be seen in this delightful flounced hem silk skirt. Complete with self covered button fly and glitzy crystals as a balance on the opposite side it is quintessential Galliano, and for that we have respect. Now SOLD

And last but certainly not least is this subtle little skirt by none other than the kings of sexiness, Dolce & Gabbana. Of course it is intended to be worn as seen up top, a hipped pencil with that kicking flounce that shows the knee as you walk, but we've shown it inside out the expose that leopard print lining synonymous with the Italian duo's work, inside and out. If one should choose to wear it this way it takes on a more raw and deconstructed feel. Now SOLD

Enjoy, and dont forget to contact via phone or email to arrange an appointment to visit the salon in Elwood
enquire@paris99.net or 0424583409

Chanel Chanel

2011-08-22T02:16:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of posting recently, but I have a few new lovely things to show! Just arrived today is this beautiful Chanel hand rolled silk scarf, featuring signature camelias and the number 5. Roll it, fold it, tie it, wrap it, so many ways to have a good time!
Contact us for more information and to make an appointment. Now SOLD
x

Newly arrived, Here for a while, But now all gone!

2011-08-14T08:11:00.000-07:00

From the iconic Spring/Summer 2009 collection by Belgian maestro Dries Van Noten is this simply gorgeous grey and orange square print silk top. I love the ease of this piece and how the ribbons on the side tie to control the drape. With us for less than a week, and now SOLD

Carrie would go wild for this nothing less than divine Oscar De La Renta skirt. Absolutely dripping with beads in all shapes and sizes, its made of the lighest silk chiffon and lined in the most crisp organza. This skirt is absolutely timeless and it waited patiently for its new owner, who is just over the moon about it! Now SOLD

I love fashion, and I love almost nothing more than anything by Azzedine Alaia. The slight Tunisian has been studiously perfecting his signature 'body-con' for over 30 years from his atelier in Le Marais. This dress with its figure hugging rib bands, small tucks at the hip to create extra volume and the bust enhancing neckline are essential Alaia. Like every piece from this famed label it did not hang around for long! Now SOLD

Olivier Theyskens is absolutely without question my all-time most admired designer. From his own eponymous label, to the grandeur of his work at Rochas and the coming together of couture and easy daywear at Nina Ricci for me he can do no wrong. Take this exquisite dress from Nina Ricci Autumn/Winter 2008; the fabric just melts to the touch, the reveal of the collarbone exudes sexiness without vulgarity and the tulle godets are silk! I knew this dress would take some time to find its right owner, but it was love at first sight, and a slightly sad goodbye for me, now SOLD

While these pieces are now in happy homes we have so many other special, collectible and just plain irresistible items at our salon space in Elwood, Melbourne and we'd love nothing more than to spend an afternoon with you on our balcony sipping tea and playing with clothes to help you find your new favourite piece. Please contact through the blog or by calling 0424 583 409.
Till next time!

Welcome to Paris '99 Blog!

2011-08-10T06:30:00.000-07:00

Hello dear friends and fashion fans,
This is it, the first Paris '99 blog post, hooray!
Here is just one of the racks of fabulous new arrivals for spring, and of course I will go into detail about each item that appears soon.
Enjoy, Yahav